It’s not hard to get lost in La Merced, actually. Even if you’re a seasoned pro, it’s not hard to get lost there, actually. No matter how good you think your Spanish is, it doesn’t really matter. It’s worth hiring a tour guide to take you through the confusing and narrow passageways, as they are the only ones who know how to navigate the twisting maze. Not only will the tour guide take you through, but they will also be able to tell you which vendor stands are worth the wait, which tacos are worth trying, and generally be able to put names to the unnameable wonders that sprawl across acres and acres.
The market’s main entrance houses a variety of exceptional food vendors, among them an unidentified stall that operates for a limited duration each week. However, it is widely acknowledged that this particular stall serves some of the most delicious tlacoyos available.
Along the main food-stall drag at the market, where dozens of booths are packed, you can eat a rich and porky posole stew made from cow’s stomach (pancita), topped famously with french fries, and served with an un-laid egg if you’re feeling extra good (hen de caldo).
In front of their stalls, the butchers proudly demonstrate their expertise by expertly carving one of the steaks or chops, freshly prepared. Alternatively, if you prefer a less daring option, you have the opportunity to purchase an entire cow, known as “una vaca entera,” for a few thousand pesos, as you transition from the food vendors to the meat section of the market.
(And, cleverly, prevent their carts from rolling off by supporting them against the bare skulls) who cut off the cooked meat upon request, visit one of the vendors offering cow head tacos if you prefer a faster option.
You can find these tiny crayfish-like aquatic creatures, along with fried-crisp insects such as escamoles (ant larvae), ants, grasshoppers, and crickets, being sold by specialty vendors. If you don’t want to verbally express your interest, you can simply take a picture of their unique display in the quiet and surprisingly dark corner of the market, where vendors of nopales (cactus paddles) also await customers.
The cooked and cured, cleaned intestines of chicken may look wormlike unsettlingly, but they taste like the savory and richest bite of chicken you’ve ever eaten.
At one of the market’s mole vendors, you can purchase rows of highly flavored pastes by the kilo. Alternatively, you have the option of making a mole from scratch, which can take a significant amount of time (ranging from hours to days or even weeks).
Bees and flies gather and congregate around their sticky-sweet exteriors; blocks of candied fruit piled up like bricks entice customers at several stands located just outside the market, the confectionery merchants.
You can find everything from off-brand sneakers made in China to cheap piñatas and calendars at La Merced, which is a vast open-air tianguis surrounding the official footprint of the market. It is also worth mentioning that the market is dedicated to food-related products and food, making it an integral part of the proper market.
If you want to experience another amazing taco, it is definitely worth returning to Mexico City. This is especially true if you are willing to brave the overwhelming chaos of La Merced. In my opinion, this is the absolute best taco I have ever tasted. I highly recommend trying the steak taco instead of the pork option. You might even want to consider getting a second one. There is a taco stand located just beyond the cow butchers on the right-hand side as you enter from the entrance. Here, you will find everything from the carnitas to the tortillas sizzling in a scorching hot mixture of lard and suet. This taco stand is situated near the end of the main row of food vendors. Lastly, I would like to offer one final piece of advice.