Being honored with a Michelin star is an honor but also a challenge that restaurants and chefs face. Having a star is really a peace of mind, but the pressure of fame also makes many restaurants under pressure.
On the evening of June 6, Michelin Guide announced the list of the first restaurants in Vietnam to achieve Michelin stars. Four restaurants Anan Saigon, Gia restaurant, Hibana by Koki restaurant of Capella Hanoi hotel and Tam Vi restaurant were named respectively. These restaurants earned a Michelin star for “the high quality of the food, worthy of being stopped by diners”.
In addition to the four prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants, there are also 70 restaurants, a Michelin Selected eatery, 29 Bib Gourmand restaurants and three Michelin Guide Special Award winners. This event is considered to be the new beginning of Vietnam’s culinary and tourism industry.
The Michelin star is considered the most prestigious award in the culinary industry. This award consists of 3 levels: 1 star for a restaurant that is very good compared to the common ground, 2 stars for a restaurant with excellent cooking quality, 3 stars for a restaurant with a special culinary style .
There are 5 criteria to evaluate restaurants, including: product quality, cooking technique, harmony in taste, chef’s personality reflected in dishes and consistency in menu and experience. culinary experience between servings. Michelin appraisers will make anonymous visits to the restaurant and provide the most rigorous and accurate reviews.
From the star of hope…
Immediately after the list of Michelin-starred restaurants was announced, many diners came to enjoy the food. The number of customers skyrocketed, causing these restaurants to always fall into a state of overcrowded tables. A representative of Tam Vi shared that the number of guests booking tables was so high that the restaurant was forced to refuse a lot of customers in the next few days because it was full.
The allure of the Michelin star is indisputable. Not only in Vietnam, many Michelin-starred restaurants and establishments also “step into the clouds” in just one night. The revenue of restaurants has also increased significantly since then.
The business of the restaurant of Bastible, Ireland improved after receiving a Michelin star. More and more diners come here to enjoy delicious dishes. “Despite the added pressure and having to meet more customer expectations, we are always proud of what we are doing,” the restaurant owner revealed.
Liath restaurant in Ireland also changed significantly after being honored by Michelin. Restaurant owner Gray said the number of international customers has increased by 38%. Sales of The Star at Harome restaurant skyrocketed by 60% after receiving a Michelin star. Many restaurants also admit that the Michelin star has given them a better business opportunity.
Joël Robuchon – the century chef with the most Michelin stars in the world said: “With one Michelin star, a restaurant’s revenue can increase by about 20%. With two stars, the revenue increased by about 40%. And with three stars, the restaurant’s revenue can increase by up to 100%.” Joël Robuchon’s Las Vegas restaurant saw a record increase in visitors as it received its third Michelin star. “The restaurant has more recognition and is always busy with people coming in and out,” says Joël Robuchon.
…to the point of obsession
However, getting caught up in the “Michelin game” can be a double-edged sword, Food and Wine reports. Behind the profits brought, Michelin stars can directly “kill” restaurants. Achieving a Michelin star is both an achievement and a challenge for restaurants.
Restaurants can lose their Michelin stars if they don’t maintain their performance. And for many restaurants, losing a Michelin star means the end. Chef Kevin Thornton’s restaurant in Dublin, Ireland saw a 76% drop in sales after losing its Michelin star. As a result, the restaurant was forced to close at the end of October 2016. Some chefs even made the extreme decision – committing suicide for fear of losing the Michelin star.
Not only that, to be able to keep the Michelin star, many restaurants have to endure considerable economic pressure. The Telegraph points out that in order to run and maintain a Michelin-starred restaurant, many establishments and restaurants have to increase their costs for services and decor. And obviously this can squeeze a restaurant’s profits.
Today also reported that after receiving a Michelin star, restaurants in Hong Kong had their rents increased by up to 120%, causing them financial trouble even before they could make a profit from this star.
There are also many chefs and restaurants who are tired of meeting the requirements of diners after receiving a Michelin star. Skype chef Gyngell had to quit her job when customers kept complaining that her Michelin-starred cafe didn’t live up to their expectations. “Many people come here and expect the restaurant to have tablecloths or formal services. But from the very beginning, our cafe oriented towards rustic and seasonal rustic dishes”, she said.
Michelin stars are really a nightmare for many chefs. In fact, there have been many cases of chefs demanding the return of the Michelin star because they are so disgusted with this frivolous title. Many chefs struggle and want to get rid of Michelin so much that they temporarily close the restaurant and open it with a new name. They pray that the new restaurant won’t be named a Michelin star again.
Chef Alain Senderens in France wants to return the Michelin star because he believes he can “create beautiful cuisine without a prize”. Chef Sebastien Bras at Le Suquet, a 3-star Michelin restaurant since 1999, also doesn’t want to be involved with this award. “We want to serve diners with the most carefree spirit, without pressure and bring true French culinary service – leisurely, freely.” For them, creating a delicious dish is not about meeting Michelin’s evaluation standards, but merely providing an enjoyable dining experience for diners and cooking with their passion.
Obviously, getting a Michelin star is indeed an achievement but by no means a success. It is like a double-edged sword, which can be a “sharp weapon” of restaurants but can also make them “cut off their hands” if not careful.