Restaurant Review: Farmers & Distillers

If George Washington were asked “What would he do?” With the concept of Distillers & Farmers, it would be considered ridiculous and little. The question was developed around the idea of purists being skeptical about the reason, which serves corn kettle and caviar alongside Szechuan noodles in a bucolic-chic venture worth $7 million. Especially if they’re sitting with a hipster hot dog bun man, they’re reimagining the portrait of the first President.

One can surely get all of this right. In the neighborhood of Mount Vernon Square/Chinatown, there is a mix of cuisines that represent a mind-boggling contents of Swiss, German, Chinese, and American restaurants, along with Southern and French cuisines. It seemed like an omen, a dish-132 ode to both George Washington and the Founding Farmers, as the menu was a tome-bound leather with a representation of the multiethnic cuisines. We had reservations, but we still had to wait in the clogged foyer for nearly 30 minutes. Though our arrival wasn’t promising, when I invited a trio of gastronome friends to accompany me, they had every reason to expect a skewering witness. So, they kept me company while we waited.

Lobster salad with beurre blanc. Photo by Scott Suchman

With a slight tinge of remorse, she admitted, “I’m thoroughly relishing this… But I had reservations halfway through the meal, when one of my companions abruptly ceased.”

Here, one can enjoy a delicious meal – and have a fantastic time. Some individuals refrain from believing that the entire experience was a mere coincidence. We all unanimously agreed, nestled in one of the cozy booths in the lively dining area.

The Farmers Restaurant Group, which is a co-owner of the Farmers Restaurant Group, has multiple partnerships with the North Dakota Farmers Union. These collaborations include a smooth vodka made from wheat grown in North Dakota and an easy-drinking “never bitter” amaro produced in the distillery located on-site in the restaurant. This distillery is influenced by Rick Wasmund, who is a master distiller at Copper Fox Distillery. Jon Arroyo, the beverage director, began collaborating with Rick Wasmund in 2009. Together, they have created Farmers-brand spirits such as rye whiskey and gin from the operation in Sperryville, Virginia. They initially started with crafting cocktails, which is an area they excel in.

Unlike the food menu, which does not list a specific number of odd-30 libations, the list of cocktails here at Delight Cucumber is centered around Arroyo’s fine-tuned creations and classic drinks. Larger groups of popular demographics should try one of these cocktails, such as the Sprightly Mix of Vodka and Ginger Liqueur served in a bronze pineapple bowl with a perfect crushed ice and a melon ball garnish.

Restaurant Review: Farmers & Distillers
Negroni sour. Photo by Scott Suchman

We easily polished off an array of appetizers, which included seafood and cream cheese stuffed rolls that were noted by one companion as dry and lacking flavor. We also had some pan-fried dumplings. The food is very good, with the steamed lobster salad served with avocado and frisée creating a tangy and citrusy flavor profile. The filet mignon tartare is also very good, with chunks of ruby-red meat. Overall, the food is slightly inconsistent but we enjoyed it.

When Mike Vucurevich and Dan Simons, co-owners of The Cheesecake Factory, first met while working at the restaurant, their vision was to maintain a small chain that pleases the crowd with similar restaurants and satisfies all cravings. An enthusiastic server offered them the opportunity to have something for everyone before another meal.

She informed us that the server, who prompted us when we ordered, deserves kudos for being attentive and well-trained. However, the goal of wild breeds inevitably leads to an inconsistent and egalitarian dining experience.

Restaurant Review: Farmers & Distillers
Tabasco-brined fried chicken. Photo by Scott Suchman

Chinese flatbread sandwiches in the shaobing category–oily explosives slathered in zesty mayo–should not be dared. Superior rice is stir-fried by affordable takeouts. The fresh threads at Chinatown Express a few blocks away left us yearning for the plain hand-pulled noodles lacking its distinctive tongue-numbing spice, one of the “historical neighborhood favorites,” Mapotofu. Farmers succeeds in representing the lower tier, although nearby Chinatown may lack genuine Chinese eateries. The tangy-sweet glaze coated on the sticky pork “riblets” that are slow-cooked until tender in citrus and ginger rescue the Szechuan and Cantonese dishes, which are the weakest overall.

The House Steak section of the menu is particularly worth indulging in, especially given the non-steakhouse prices. Distillers & Farmers also offers a more upscale spin on its siblings, with a flavorful ten-ounce local rib eye that goes for $24. In addition to that, they have a homey slice of chocolate chess pie or just-baked bread from their in-house bakery. The rib short beef stewed pot-au-feu, masquerading fancily as Grandma’s pot roast, is tender and crackling to the bite, while the Tabasco-brined fried chicken is ultra-juicy. Instead of zeroing in on what the best restaurants in Farmers do with Americana, they serve enormous portions at reasonable prices.

We were having a great time as various groups (some casual, others dressed formally) gathered in the bright dining area. All of the food options, ranging from eggs Benedict to a carving station with prime rib, a bakery and pancake bar, delicious riblets and fried chicken, scrambles, and salads, are included in the all-you-can-eat feast ($30 for adults). Buffets are perfect for offering a variety of choices. Another opportunity to enjoy the restaurant’s finest offerings is their weekend brunch.

The shoe is a good match, but since it’s loosely based on America, it’s not perfect. There are too many variables involved at Farmers & Distillers, indeed.

This article is featured in the March 2017 edition of Washingtonian.