On April 2, 1982, Argentine forces invaded and seized the Falkland Islands (also known as Las Malvinas), as well as the British islands of South Georgia, which Argentina believed to be its rightful territory. In response, Britain quickly sent a military force to reclaim the islands, which had been under British rule for more than a hundred years. Ultimately, the British prevailed with their aircraft carriers and Harrier jets, but not without significant loss of life, as nearly a thousand people perished. The islands were eventually returned to British control. It is not recorded whether the king penguins and elephant seals who inhabit South Georgia were consulted on their preferred country of residence. Given humanity’s historical treatment of other species, it seems unlikely that such considerations were taken into account.
Argentina went on to win the match and the World Cup. Instead of scoring a goal with his hand, Maradona nudged it into the net with his fist. The English referees saw what happened but protested furiously instead of penalizing him. The match was still goalless a few minutes into the second half when Diego Maradona scored. The match took place on June 22, 1986, in Mexico City, in the FIFA World Cup quarter-finals between England and Argentina.
When I was finally ready, I heard a distant shout that might have been “secure”. I scrambled up behind the pillar and removed the screws, leaving the tools there. When I reached the top, there was only two or three meters of rope left, with my feet dangling just a few feet above the seventy-meter rope. Even though I was still in the warm sunshine, I watched the blue shadows creep upward from the depths. As the sun started to skim the shoulder of the Epaulette Mountain across the valley, I paid out the rope and began my ascent. It was December and the sun was low.
With a little pickaxe made of ice in the hand of God, the crux practically holds the route itself, with one or two more at the all – named. On the long drive home, we talked about the infamous goal that some had seen as revenge for the Falklands. Like most other boys his age, he wanted to be a star football player, just like a kid. My climbing partner grew up in South America, where Maradona was a god. Diego Maradona died five days earlier, living fast.
From limestone cliffs to icy overhangs, it’s a classic combination found in
Juan is following the second climb on our initial try.
It was a blustery day, and we quickly ran down to the car for warmth. We secured the necessary bolts to avoid having to bring the drill again. We repeatedly washed off the spray of waves.
We returned a week later on a day that was cold but clear. Juan was bundled up in puffy pants and a jacket as he belayed me. I thought I could still climb reasonably well, even with multiple layers on, as I started up the second pitch. Juan, still bundled up in his puffy pants and jacket, belayed me from below. While we bathed in the glorious sunshine, the third pitch’s crux remained in the cold shade, and we were still struggling to stay warm. Photo by Juan Henriquez.
I also pulled Juan’s hand out of some screws, but I meant to make the climb to the top of the pillar behind Juan’s skinny third pitch by belaying from my comfortable and soft ice rope, stretched out by intense solar radiation.
When it was my chance to trail the path, I noticed that it was gradually descending towards Epaulette Mountain across the Mistaya River valley. However, in the Rockies, the sun in December never ascends far above the horizon.
“Goooal!” Juan Henriquez celebrates at the summit of the route in the rays of the setting sun.
The Hand of God (135 meters, M7 WI5).
Authors: Juan Henriquez and Raphael Slawinski, December 1,
Scaling the conspicuous blade several hundred meters to the left of Cosmic Messenger, this route has been proposed to have been ascended in the 1990s by Serge Angelucci, however, we discovered no substantiation of prior activity. It would be a remarkable and forward-looking accomplishment if it was indeed conquered during that time period, prior to the emergence of modern climbing techniques and advanced drilling tools.
The foundation for climbing ice becomes narrower as you ascend the small steps and traverse the loose snow across the angled drainage. This is the path above which you will find the Messenger Cosmic, taking approximately 1.5 hours to reach.
Gear: Twelve draws, twelve screws, cams ranging from #0.1 to #1 Camalots, seventy meter ropes.
The belay equipment and a bolt are used to traverse to the left and climb a steep wall. Below the ledge, there is an awkward mantle and some cracks, as well as shield ice that needs to be scrambled up. This is a 1-pitch climb that spans 25 meters.
Past the dagger, there is a belay with 2 bolts that trends to the right. It goes out and peters out on the corner where it is located. There is a fixed pin just above the belay, on the right-facing corner that can be dry-tooled. This is the 25-meter, 2-pitch route.
The pitch is entirely protected by bolts but belay from the screws. Continue up the dagger to a small cave behind a free-standing pillar. Use long reaches to crank over the roof above, belaying the 15-meter (3-pitch) pitch.
Climbers ascend a vertical pillar of ice, utilizing a belay block or screw ice for safety. They swing the lower-angled ice hose up to the top of the cliff, which is affected by the sun and covered in ice. This pitch has a 70-meter length.
Make a descent by double-roping with a long rappel from behind the pillar to the back-thread cave, which is shorter than the ground.
The queue for The Hand of God.